Weather report: cold! It got up to 60° F today; frankly we were hoping for a little more. But now the wind’s come back and we are shut up in our little rented room with cold walls, cold floors and a very, very cold bathroom. However, Maria has just made some Lapsang to warm our cockles and may we take this opportunity to say she did an excellent job of cleaning the frying pan of Craig’s ‘Potatoes a la Rattlesnake’. Tim strums – what else – Radiohead riffs in the corner, ‘Where I End and You Begin’, to be precise, his bread is in the oven, rising slowly. We (Craig and Will) are huddled in the glow of a laptop sans internet connection. We’re going to have to visit our new friend Petros this afternoon to lock and (up)load.

On that note, the locals have been spectacular, and endlessly entertaining. We’re going for coffee tonight with Demetris, the icon painter, who is currently down in Fira coaching the local football team; and the Mayor, Mr Giorgos, has warmed to us – congratulations to him on his 50-day-old baby boy.

Daniel shipped off last night back to Paris, where he’ll be telling stories to Quinn that will make him jealous – he struck up quite a friendship with the stray dogs here – and they should be uploading the video this weekend.

On the business end, no obstacles in sight; it seems that property will cost less than initially anticipated and the town is teeming with beautiful buildings, any of which we would be thrilled to call home.

Laundry Situation: Negative
Foot Cheese Factor: Highly positive, spreading to fixation
Peanut Butter: Half a jar consumed
Ashtray: olive pips, too many cigarettes, not enough biddies
Bread: Orgasmic, says Maria. Just out of the oven, soft and hot and best dipped in olive oil
Music: rockin’. Tim and Will hooked up the amp (Update: Will has got a really tiny amp recently, he can really be a stickler for portability!) and speakers last night. Craig’s iPod trades licks with Will’s mp3 collection; we’ve yet to decide which is sulkier
Greek lessons: an uphill battle. Tim’s chalkboard is covered in letters, numbers, greetings, and ‘watermelon’ (karpouzi)
Donkey factor: Looking good.

– CW, WB, TKVS, MP

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